The Bracebridge Dinner

I am an experiential kind of gal - always looking for ways to shake things up and keep it interesting. This year for Christmas I googled "unique Christmas experiences" and stumbled upon The Bracebridge Dinner, an 83-year-old tradition presented at the historic Ahwahnee Lodge in the majestic Yosemite Valley. I stole my mother for the holiday weekend and let me tell you, it was well worth it. I loved sharing something so incredibly special with her.

We drove up to Tenaya Lodge, a few miles outside of the park, and started things off with a sleigh ride. Actually, it turned out to be a wagon ride because there wasn't quite enough snow, but the horses had sleigh bells and they stopped for cider around a fire in the middle of the forest mid-ride, so all was well. Afterwards we had a really magnificent dinner - sand dabs and grapefruit risotto for mamacita, and for me, a honey ginger glazed spicy pork shop with tomato, white bean ragout and spinach. Back to the room we went to watch a movie before blissfully falling asleep.

The next morning found me slipping down to the spa for a deep tissue massage (thanks, Mom!) before we headed to the Yosemite Valley, where we did the Valley Floor Tour. Things I remember from the tour? There have never been any recorded deaths from bear attacks in Yosemite (even though they will happily rip off your doors to get to your ice chest or even a bottle of sunscreen) and the youngest person to climb El Capitan was a 9-year-old boy who completed it with his father.

That night, Christmas Eve, we checked into the Wawona Hotel, a 100+ year-old hotel with no TVs, phones, and sometimes no power (if you plugged in too many things at once). The dark and the quiet was a welcome respite and the lack of gadgetry forced people to connect. You know - like people used to do. We talked with lovely groups of strangers in front of the giant fireplace, gathered around the piano and sang Christmas carols, played card games.....it was lovely.

Christmas morning came and mi madre y yo exchanged stockings. I love Christmas stockings. Getting them or giving them. My mom is so very thoughtful and good at filling a stocking (i.e. she recognizes that putting things like a bottle of "Lady Anti Monkey Butt" powder in there will delight me), but the best and most unexpected gift of all was my grandmother's wedding ring from 1943. I slipped it on and stared at it all day. Now I have both her and my grandfather's wedding rings. It means the world to have something of theirs. I often forget they're gone.

Back to the Bracebridge Dinner. After a leisurely morning of sleeping in and breakfast at the Wawona, we dressed up in our fanciest gear and prettied ourselves up to head on down to the valley again. The Bracebridge Dinner is a four-hour pageant of sorts, with a seven-course Christmas dinner intertwined. It's as if you are a part of an old English family's Christmas celebration. The music, costumes and food are the stars here. Famed Yosemite photographer Ansel Adams was a part of the event for many years and many of the singers come back each Christmas to reprise their roles. Take a gander at the menu:

The Relish

Savory Chevre Cheesecake
Arugula Pesto, Crispy Root Vegetables

The Soup

Roasted Kobocha Squash
Crème Fraiche, Pumpernickel Croutons

The Fish

Smoked Salmon & Dungeness Crab Timbale

Upland Cress, Citrus-Farm Egg Vinaigrette

The Peacock Pie

Braised California Pheasant & Chestnut Pithivier
Roasted Parsnip Purée, Huckleberry Jus

Boar's Head and Baron of Beef

Roasted Brandt Beef Tenderloin
Pommes Fondantes, Cauliflower Gratín, Swiss Chard,
Sauce Bordelaise

The Salad

Endive Salad
Candied Pecans, Shaved Fennel, Blood Orange Vinaigrette

Plum Pudding and Wassail

Brandy-Apricot & Hard Sauces

Mignardises

The soup, fish and peacock pie were the standouts for me and watching the highly-choreographed movements of the servers was entertainment in itself. Travelers from all over the world descend upon the Ahwahnee and get all dressed up to attend, so the people-watching was sublime.

At the end of the night, a large shuttle bus driven by Santa (aka Maynard, but he looked and dressed like Santa) was waiting to carry us back to the Wawona Hotel. As soon as we pulled away, it started to snow. Thick, fat flakes pelted down so hard and fast that Santa had to pull over within the first 10 minutes to put chains on the massive bus tires. It grew very quiet then - everyone just a little bit nervous about driving an hour up a winding mountain road during a heavy snowstorm. About halfway up we happened upon a college student whose car was caught in a snow drift up the road and we welcomed her aboard, rubbed her frozen feet, and plied her with hot tea. It felt like something out of a movie. We were all in it together. Santa Maynard deserves an award for getting us back safely. It was a perfect day. Nothing, not even the fact that our coat check claim number was the ominous 666, could ruin this day. Magic.

This morning we woke up to a winter wonderland. Huge pines heavy-laden with snow - like something out of a Dr. Seuss picture book. I wandered in the woods after breakfast by myself, crunching through untouched snow. I spied fresh animal tracks and looked up to catch four deer stepping out onto the path in front of me. I kept my distance because, well, who wants to get gored by a deer on Boxing Day?

I saw another track that looked kind of like a bear track and not wanting to be the very first Yosemite bear death, I turned around and headed back. Our drive down the mountain a little while later was heavenly.

Click here for a few seconds of the stunning drive.

Merry Christmas